Culinary Masters - Ferdinand Point

Throughout his 57 years of living, Fernand Point enjoyed life immensly. He was 25 years of age when he went to Vienna and had already spent the better part of his youthful years in the kitchen. He worked with his father Auguste Point, who ran a small buffet restaurant in the railroad station in the Louhans. It was here that his mother and grandmother, both excellent cordons bleu cooks, first introduced him to cooking as a small boy. 

(Cordon bleus is a french term literally translated as "blue ribbon." It refers originally to an award given to women chefs for culinary excellence)

As far as Auguste Point was concerned his son's talents extended far beyond the little kitchen of the station restaurant. The railway's refusal to place the restaurant on its list of officially recognized establishments in 1922 provided Auguste Point with the impetus he needed. He decided to go to Lyon.

The Points search for a quality restaurant in Lyon was fruitless. In Vienne, eighteen miles to the south, the restaurant Guieu was for sale. The Point's headed for Vienne and purchased Guieu, on September 10, 1923. The people of Vienne were saddened to hear that Leon Guieu was leaving the restaurant he had founded and operated successfully for 20 years. However, they were elated that the restaurant could not have passed into finer hands. Vienne had qualities which appealed to F.P. Like Rome, the city was built on seven hills whose terraces were lush green from early spring to late fall. Then there were it's medieval houses, the Byzantine steeples of its basilicas, and the gothic towers of Cathedrate Saint-Maurice with its facade the color of melted butter. Most importantly the city was located at the confluence of the Rhone and Gere Rivers. It was an ideal stopping place along the route from Paris to the Cote d' Azur.

Fernand was impressed with the town's ancient Roman ruins, particularly the majestic pyramid that stood down the street from his new restaurant. The pyramid rested on a heaby stone base cosisting of four columns and four arches. Its point had been reinforced with steel bands, but otherwise it remains exactly as the Romans built it two thousands years ago. Over the years the pyramid and the restaurant F.P. named after it (de la Pyramide) became synonymous. He used the pyramid as his symbol. It appeared on the cover of his menus, specially-cast models were used to decorate presentation trays, butter molds were pyramid-shaped, even the puff pastries accompanying certain dishes were baked in the form of tiny pyramids.

Little by little the old nineteenth century building that had housed the restaurant Guieu was changed to suit the taste and style of the Point's. When the father; Auguste Point died in 1925, the new kitchen had just been completed.

Fernand was not only changing the appearance of his restaurant, he was creating his own special kind of cuisine and in the process transporting classic French cuisine. He put to rest many of the old taboos about la grande cuisine. He did not agree that one must bow down to the classical authorities. Why must he revere Escoffier and follow all his precepts without deviation if they are only half satisfactory at most to his taste? Monsieur Point believed that great cuisine is not static. The creative cuisinier cannot hold only to what was done in the past and go no further. One should retain the base, the foundation, and build on that, modifying and refining it to suit changing tastes in changing times. That is what he did--and he created a new cuisine for that century.

In addition to the cuisine he broke new ground for his fellow cuisiniers. Before Fernand the cuisinier never left the kitchen. The maitre d' hotel ran the restaurant and the chef kept to the stoves. Fernand was to change all that. He came into the dining room to talk to his clients. He sounded out their likes and dislikes and composed their dinner with them, creating dishes to their tastes. He was content to let his work speak for itself.

His marriage in 1930 helped the reputation of the restaurant; new wife Marie-Louise, became an intricate part of the restaurant. She supervised the service in the dining room, kept the books, paid the bills, hand wrote the menu, daily, and attended to all other details associated with running the business. Shortly after his marriage he bought a piece of land adjoining his restaurant and created a garden with trim green lawns and beds of flowers. There was a terrace for dining. A second story was added to the building and the main dining room was enlarged. When the remodeling was completed the restaurant de la Pyramide looked like a country residence.

Believing that dining was a total experience; the atmosphere, the ambiance, the cuisine, the wines, the clientele should all blend perfectly. No detail was too insignificant to be overlooked. He was known for saying, "I'm not hard to please, I'm content with the very best." His attitude was equally uncompromising. He insisted that his crystal be the finest Baccarat, his China the finest Limoges porcelain. The high standards of a great restaurant, he was convinced, can only be maintained at the cost of such items.

Running his restaurant with a firm and unyielding hand; the number of seats in the restaurant was strictly limited to fifty. When that number was reached, the President of the Republic himself would not have made it pass the door. Serving hours, too, were rigidly kept. The dining room was a kind of sanctuary where petty outside disturbances must not intrude under any circumstances.

A typical day for him at de la Pyramide began before sunrise. He promptly rose at 4:30 a.m. telephoned Les Halles, the great market in Paris. He ordered exclusively from quality suppliers he came to know and trust during his period of apprenticeship at Foyot's and the Hotel Bristol. Each merchant shipped his best merchandise to F.P. fresh daily by train from Paris to Vienne.

Fernand also apprenticed at the Hotel Royal in Evian. At the Hotel Royal he apprenticed along with Georges Bocuse, father of Paul Bocuse. Paul Bocuse later trained under F.P. at de la Pyramide for five years as did Paul Mercier, who was a brilliant cuisinier. Fernand came to rely on over the years and Paul Mercier took over de la Pyramid after Fernand's death in 1955.

Paul Mercier and F.P. would meet in the kitchen every morning to discuss the days events. There had never been a set or standard bill of fare at de la Pyramide; it changed day to day, depending on the best available supplies. Nor was there ever a printed carte or menu. The menu was never overwhelming; at most there were twenty items.

His attitude about money was extremely casual and reflected itself on the carte, which noted only a single price for dinner. Separate prices were never listed for the various items on the menu. Telling a journalist during an interview, "Cooking demands complete dedication. One must think only of one's work. When I began as an apprentice I was in the kitchen at five o'clock in the morning and I did not stop until eleven at night, with just a couple hours rest in the afternoon. That was my schedule in 1914 at the hotel Bristol in Paris. It has been my schedule ever since. It's too much isn't it? But la grande cuisine is pitiless!"

F.P. kept a small cream-colored notebook in which he jotted down his thoughts on cuisine and life. In his case the two were synonymous. These notes constituted a kind of gastronomic testament as well as a line of conduct to be followed by young cuisiniers. The notebook became known as "MA GASTRONOMIE." Below are several quotes taken from the book which also provide more insite into F.P.

"The cuisinier loses his reputation when he becomes indifferent to his work."

"La grande cuisine must not wait for the guest; its the guest who must wait for la grande cuisine."

"Inattention never pays off in the kitchen."

"When one thinks of la grande cuisine one cannot think of money; the two are incompatible. La grande cuisine is extremely expensive-but that does not mean one cannot do very good cooking with inexpensive ingredients."

"Every morning the cuisinier must start again at zero, with nothing on the stove. That is what real cuisine is all about."

"Cookbooks are as alike as brothers. The best is the one you write yourself." "For a chef to be respected his superiority must not be in doubt. He must excel in everything; including pastry cooking and purchasing."

"In all professions without doubt, but certainly in cooking one is a student all his life."

"The best cooking is that which takes into consideration the products of the season."

"Wines that are too old are not suitable for cooking. Fire cannot give them back the strength they have lost."

"One of the most important things that distinguish man from other animals is that man can get pleasure from drinking without being thirsty."

"Success is the sum of a lot of small things done correctly."

"If the divine creator has taken pains to give us delicious and exquisite things to eat, the least we can do is prepare them well and serve them with ceremony."

"Every country, every region, has it's local specialties about which it's rash to say, "they're not very good," because nature supplies every taste."

"As far as cuisine is concerned one must read everything, see everything, hear everything, try everything, observe everything, in order to retain in the end, just a little bit."

Culinary Masters - Prosper Montagne

Chef Prosper Montagne is probably best known for writing the great culinary work: ‘Larousse Gastronomique’: a colossal volume of the A – Z of the kitchen; with references to items such as famous culinary people/chefs, ingredients, classical dishes and garnishes. This classic was written with the assistance of a Dr. Gottschalk; the first edition being published in 1938 and prefaced by both Chef Auguste Escoffier and Chef Phileas Gilbert

But who was Chef Montagne?

He was born in Carcassonne, France in 1865 and eventually progressed through all the levels of the kitchen brigade; including those of great Parisian establishments and the likes of Cauteret, San Remo and Monte Carlo.

Apparently he initially thought of studying towards a career in architecture, but his father had other ideas and made him take up his training as a cook, he did this by buying into an old, dilapidated establishment; the L’Hotel de Quatre Saiason (The Four Seasons Hotel) in Toulouse. A forced career path change I guess we can all be thankful for.

But far from thankful, apparently, was the young Montagne, who from all accounts would take time out during the wee small hours, to try and help with the renovations that transpired at the hotel. To cut short the artistic aspirations of his son, Prosper’s father placed him as an apprentice at the L'hôtel d'Angleterre in Cauterets, where Prosper was entrusted to the one of the best cooks of the time, Chef Alphonse Meillon. Working and training under such a master, Prosper Montagné quickly took to the tasks, the opportunity and the work which at one time he seemed to think unworthy of his talents.

Having learned much from Chef Meillon he travelled to Paris to start at the "Ambassadors" and be part of the brigade of a large hotel, (where as it happens he was to return later in life as Chef de Cuisine). He worked under the direction of Chef Pierre Philippe , then to the Hotel of Paris of Assembles-Carlo until its departure for the military service.

After serving his time in the French Army, (forced military service) he became the Chef de Cuisine of Le Casino de Luchon, then works the winter on the Riviera, for L’Assembles-Carlo. While at Luchon he met his life long friend Chef Prosper Sallas; who had been an apprentice of Philéas Gilbert, which made him the remarkable sous chef he was to Montagne.

But Montagne moves on to a large hotel in Brussels, before returning to Paris to take up a position with the House of Ermenonville at Ledoyen, and finally more or less retires in 1907 to become one of the most famous and respected culinary writers of our time. With unbounded activity, Prosper Montagné wrote an enormous quantity of works and articles. His works are read, at the time, in the majority of the big national dailies and the most important reviews of Paris and the Province.

He became the ‘commissioner’ for the Culinary Exposition of Paris, inspector of food for the publicly-owned hospital, a professor at School of Commerce and also at the ‘Women’s Hotel School along with many other titles and positions.

Somewhere amongst all this, he makes a trip to the United States, where he advises the direction of the slaughter-houses of Chicago.

During the First World War (1914 – 1918) Chef Prosper Montagné organises the central kitchens of the French army and also sets up the famous ‘Ecole des Cuistots’ (Cooks School). With endless enthusiasm he takes it upon himself to take his teachings and thoughts to the four corners of the country and to lecture to very enthusiastic audiences.

Then in 1920, on the corner of Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the Rue de l'Echelle, Chef Montagne, he opens an establishment whose signage carries its new title, simply: ‘Montagné, delicatessen’. It is immediately a hit and in his crisp, white chef’s jacket, the master officiates in front of his customers and prepares the most exquisite dishes for them. But despite its seeming success, the business world was not in his veins and probably due to poor management it is forced to close. He leaves it as poor as when he started it.

He retires to Sevres, to again pick up the pen and publishes ‘La Grande Livre de Cuisine’ in 1929 which he collaborates on with Pierre Salles. It is a clearly a titanic task; where this well read man with his vast professional knowledge continues to share on each page his unquestionably wealth of all things gastronomic.

Prosper Montagné, in his last years, was called in as a quality technical adviser by Mr. André, the director/owner of the Restaurant de la Reine Pédauque. Where he was again able to work in front of the customers as it had formerly done in his own establishment.

The Chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur of the Legion of Honour; Chef Prosper Montagné passed away in Sevres, France on April 22nd, 1948 at the age of 83. Carrying with him forever the high regard of his peers and the thoughts of his many pupils, apprentices and friends.

Amongst his written culinary works are:

1900 - 'La Grande Cuisine Illustrée’ (The Great Kitchen Illustrated) with Prosper Salles; his first venture into culinary written work

1913 – ‘la Cuisine Fine’ (The Fine Kitchen)

1929 - ‘La Festin Occitan’

1929 – ‘Grand Livre de la Cuisine’ (The ‘Large Book of the Kitchen’)

1941 - ‘Cuisine avec et sans ticket’

Footnote

The ‘Larousse Gastronomique’ has gone through many editions and revisions in its time. Something I am in two minds about:On one hand it is great to have a book that is updated and includes modern information on ingredients etc

On the other hand should a classic like this be altered? Would we update the Bible to conform with new scientific evidence, or change George Orwell’s book just because we are now passed the year it was set in?

An interesting thought that no doubt you will all have your own ideas and thoughts about

Culinary Masters - Careme

Antonin (Anton) Carême is said to be one of the greatest chefs of all time and probably the first ever 'celebrity chef''

He was born on June 08th, in either 1783 or 1784; just before the French revolution, this shows in his work, as it reflects the freedom of thought and action that flooded France during the years that followed. Carême had the ability to simplify menus and methods, to analyze cooking old and new, and to define every aspect of the art, that is known today as haute cuisine. It was Creme that invented this simplified but refined form of cookery,

Carême’s achievements are even more amazing considering his early childhood and teenage years. Carême was totally self-educated and the son of a hard drinking labourer. At the age of 10 Marie-Antoine (or Antonin as he called himself) was turned out onto the harsh streets of Paris with the apparant words: "Go my child, and fare well in the world. Leave us to languish; poverty and misery are our lot and we will die as we have lived. But for those like you, with quick wits, there are great fortunes to be made". With these words Carême left his family behind.

He was taken in by the owner of a low class restaurant at the Maine gate, where he engaged to serve a six-year apprenticeship. Carême’s abilities were noticed by by one of the greatest pattiseurs of the day; Bailly, because of this Carême began working for him at the age of 17. Carême had nothing but praise for Bailly, who allowed him to study in the Cabinet des Gravures, where he taught himself to draw and read.

In Carêmes time, the pâtissieur was as prestigious as that of the cuisinier himself (head chef). Pastry cooks were responsible for the great decorative centrepieces or 'pièces montées' and the crowning glory of grand dinners. Carême excelled at these flights of fancy. In his first two books, Le Pâtissier Royal and Le Pâtissier Pittoresque, he produces hundred of designs for rustic pavilions, ruins, cascades, temples, forts, windmills and other ornate creations.

Carême insisted that his fine art was confectionary. With such miniature fantasies, their components surrealistically coloured and shaped to look anything but themselves, made a mockery of nature. Nonetheless they appealed to Carêmes patrons.

With his two-year training with Bailly completed, Carême attracted the attention of the most famous statesmen of the time, the Duc de Talleyrand. Talleyrand kept one of the best tables in Paris, for an hour each morning he conferred on the menu of the day. Carême had been engaged as Pâtissier, but was determined to learn from Boucher; Talleyrands chef, the art of the Cuisinier.

It is said that Talleyrand, set Careme a task: to create a whole year's of menu's without repetition of dishes and using only seasonal ingredients. a task the young master succeeded in

After working with Boucher for twelve years, Carême had outclassed his mentor. This was done partly by working on the shadow of many of the top chef’s of the day, as one of the extras called in to help on special occasions.

In the early 1800’s France was gripped in the desperate struggle for the control of Europe. This hit the kitchens hard, where provisions and staff to cook them were greatly reduced. The kitchen staff was forced to economize, this made them use their time and ingredients available, to a higher standard. This ended in the abandonment of the coulis and was in the favour of the Espagnole sauce (resembling the one used today).

By 1815 both haute and bourgeoise cuisine, would have been recognizable to the modern cook, thanks largely to the influence of Carême and his great rival, Beauvilliers. Beauvielles died in 1820, before competition between the two cooks could become bitter.

To better establish himself, Carême left Talleyrand's household on 1815 and crossed the channel to work for the Prince Regent, who later became King George IV. Carême was depressed by the climate and the attitude of his fellow cooks, who resented the attention paid to their foreign Pâtissier.

Two years of England were enough for Carême and in 1818 he returned to Paris. Where even more offers awaited him. Carême joined the staff of Czar Alexander, but Russia proved to be no more to Carêmes taste than England. Carême returned to France and in 1820 went to work for the British ambassador.

Returning to Paris in 1823, Carême started on the last and most important phase of his life. When through his cookbooks he established himself as one of the best of his profession. The first of his many books was Le Maitre d’hôtel Français. In this Carême describes the hundreds of menus, which he created and cooked in the capitals of Europe. Carême was the cold buffets most brilliant exponent.

In another of Carême’s books Le Cuisinier Parisien, published in 1828, he explains the principals for making classic chaudfroids and aspic dishes (Chaudfroids are small pieces of meat, fish, poultry or game, glazed in a brown or white sauce, then glazed with aspic). This is an art, which has not significantly developed since then, but an art that is now fading away. But even the great can make mistakes and it was with aspic the Carême once had a major disaster. The isinglass (a type of gelatin) failed to arrive and, foolishly, Carême tried to mold his charlottes without it; they wobbled so dangerously when turned out that they were unusable. He never forgot the disgrace.

His last book was L’Art de la Cuisine Français au dix-neavième siècle, this was an exhaustive survey of classic French cooking, perfected by Carême and followed with little change until the end of the century. In this book he develops several hundred versions of today’s potages and institutes the custom of garnishing meat with meat and fish with fish. Dispensing with the sweetbreads and cockscombs, which had survived from the fifteenth century. The basic sauces – Espagnole, béchamel and velouté – would be familiar to today’s chefs, as would Carême’s 100 and more variations.

Carême was in poor health while he was writing L’Art de la Cuisine (the first three volumes appeared in 1833, the year of his death, and two volumes were added by his friend and colleague Plumérey). Carême had exhausted himself by his dedication to good food and cooking. He rose before dawn, so he could choose only the freshest fruits and vegetables from the markets. He was on constant duty working until the late hours.

Sometimes Carême would hardly sleep at all, with sauces being started, for an important dinner, at 3 am. Carême also worked in exhausting situations. With a lot of coal and wood burning around them. In this furnace everyone moves with sped; not a sound is heard, only the chef has a right to speak, and at the sound of his voice, everyone obeys. Finally the last straw in the hot kitchen, for about half an hour, all the windows are closed so that the dishes would not cool down, as they are being served.

Carême was extremely proud of his unique art. He was sensitive to decoration and struck on elegance, he always had a sense of prosperity. He wanted to create a school of cookery that would gather the most famous chefs in order to set the standard for beauty in classical and modern cookery, and attest to the distant future that the 19th century, that French chefs were the most famous in the world.

He was also concerned with details of kitchen equipment. He redesigned certain kitchen utensils, designed molds, and changed the shape of saucepans to pour sugar. He was even concerned about the shape of the chef’s hat and the shape of the classic chef's hat or torque is said to have been designed by Carême.

Antonin Carême died at the age of 50. Laurant Tailhade was quoted saying he was ‘ burnt out by the flame of genius, and the charcoal of the roasting spit” but he died once he had realized his dream, ‘to publish a complete book on the state of my profession in out times’. All of Carême’s books invite the reader to the tables of emperors, kings and princes for whom Carême worked. Alexander I, said to Talleyrand ‘What we did not know was that he taught us to eat’.

The best known culinary writings of Careme are:

18** - Le Maitre d’hôtel Français

18** - Le Pâtissier Royal

18** - Le Pâtissier Pittoresque

1828 - Le Cuisinier Parisienne

1833 - L’Art de la Cuisine Français au dix-neavième siècle

Culinary Masters - Escoffier's Great Grandson

Quite a few years ago I completed a research piece on that Chef of Chefs : Auguste Escoffier, that I posted here on Geocities. It has been used since by many as seemingly the ultimate piece on the man, the chef. Quoted even by the Escoffier Society and the Escoffier Museum to name a few, and now even by his great grandson, Michel Escoffier (link to Escoffier article below)

Chef Auguste Escoffier

http://www.mmtravel.net:80/ had organised one of thier many food and wine cruises based on Escoffier's cuisine, menus and dishes, leading the cruise is his great grandson, Michel Escoffier. As part of the cruise's publicity they used my research piece. All unbeknown to me until one of my 2007 trainee chef students came across it while completing her own research for an assignment

The cruise (from the USA) was calling into Christchurch, N.Z. in Jan 2008 and I was invited onboard, to spend the day with Michel Escoffier and with the guest chef who is cooking all the dishes www.reneekellys.com. As part of it all, they asked for my trainee chef to join us for the day.

Here then is a record of that unforgettable day 

January 13, 2008 - Sunday

Just about to head off to meet the Great Grandson of Chef Auguste Escoffier onboard the Cruise liner Silver Whisper, and spend tomorrow showing him around Christchurch

January 14, 2008 - Monday

Coming out of the Lyttleton tunnel and turning left and down the hill, there it was all docked in all its splendour. The Silver Whisper. The lingering memory of that instant will be student chef Ash’s remark (expletives removed! ;-) “……. that’s BIG!” Without thinking and realising it, I discovered it was the first time she had seen a cruise liner close up …… it was about to get a lot closer and a lot more personal http://www.silversea.com

We met the Silver Whisper at 8.30am (Monday 14th Jan 2008) and went through security with no problems ..... our names were on the VIP guest list and our onboard day passes were issued. We were shown to deck/level five and the reception area. All staff greeting us as we had made our way to reception, any ship’s crew is well trained in the art of meet and greet. Like military personnel always salute a superior, ships crew ALWAYS greet guests, even if it’s a simple hello, NO ONE is ever walked passed without being acknowledged

the meeting

Without even saying who we were, we were told Monsieur Escoffier was expecting us and to take a seat and he would be joining us shortly. The door of the lift opened and out stepped Michel Escoffier, the great grandson of the man himself : Chef Auguste Escoffier. Almost at once we were made to feel at ease, no pomp, no graces .... just a friendly, a perfect French gentleman introduced himself and was immediately more interested in who we were, how our trip over had been, how we had been treated so far etc. Chef Renee Neighbors soon joined us and had the same genuine friendliness.

Chef Renee was the guest Chef aboard the Silver Whisper, for the Escoffier food and wine tour. During the4 tour she is responsible for reproducing many of Auguste Escoffier classical dishes and menus. www.reneekellys.com While still in the reception area chatting, we were joined by the Christchurch Press reporter, Mary K. The next hour was spent touring the ship, conducting interviews as we walked. The bars, the restaurants, the cabins, the facilities. From the main dining room, simply named ‘The Restaurant’, to the Bistro style ‘La Terrazza’ from the fine dining ‘La Champagne’ restaurant to the ‘Humidor’ cigar room. All VERY impressive in both design and quality. Eventually sitting down to complete the press interview in a conference room, mostly conducted unfortunately while the all important but very noisy safety drill was conducted.

Once the press had left, we were left to ourselves. Left with Michel Escoffier and Chef Renee to show us more of the ship, to show us the all important kitchens (sorry galleys) and to meet the chefs. The galleys are small given the amount of guests and food that is required to be prepared, und surprisingly (or not if you’re a seasoned chef) are not that well equipped. I was surprised to see there was no railings around the stoves to prevent them moving in rough seas. The kitchens are well staffed though with a French Exec Chef, Senior Sous Chef Paul is Dutch, yet most of the line cooks are Phipipinos.

After the final tour it was time to relax a little, time for Ashley and myself to show them a little of Christchurch in the short 3 hours plus we had. We had got to know both Michel and Chef Renee quite well in this short time and was made to feel immediately at ease with them. In a short 90 minutes we had all bonded quite well and were far from strangers, in less than two hours it felt we had known each other for some time. As can be seen in these photos. 

the afternoon 

Senior Sous Chef Paul, had requested to join us off ship for a while, it was off to the lifts and back down to disembark . It had been explained to them I only had a two door Toyota Celica, bit that proved no problem to them and were quite willing to muck in, squeeze in and make the most of the time. A simple gesture, but to me it said volumes for the amiable people they were.

With Ash, Chef Paul and Chef Renee squeezed into the back and the great grandson of Escoffier next to me in the passenger seat we set off for the gondola and Mount Cavendish. Five of us and only four to a gondola cabin, Ash was given the honour of sharing the trip up the mountain alone with Michel Escoffier. To the top and the views of course are stunning and took the breath away from our guests. After a photo shoot session, it was time for refreshment. How many trainee chefs can boast that Escoffier great grandson bought her coffee? As for the man himself he likes his coffee neat and enjoys a strong espresso. We sat we drank we chatted and go to know our guests and them us

Time to move on, Chef Renee being from Kansas needed to see beach and feel sand between her toes. New Brighton here we come. A walk on the beach, along the pier and relaxed fun and photos were the order of the day. With Michel finding a large staff like piece of driftwood and doing a very good Gandalf impression, this man knows no formalities, he is a fun loving, life embracing person. Much like his great grand father was from all accounts, formal when required but day to day it is a humanitarian and lover of life. as is evident from this priceless photo. 

During the times in the car driving from A to B, Michel and I chatted and I was to gain a lot of personal anecdotes about Auguste Escoffier and about Michel, His family, his late wife, his son and daughter . Out of respect these will remain just that personal anecdotes and memories. The ones I can share are about Chef Auguste and I will be posting on my Auguste Escoffier web pagewww.reocities.com/napavalley/6454 We also discussed in detail the L'Ordre International des Disciples d'Auguste Escoffier and the starting of a NZ chapter www.disciples-escoffier.com … so watch this space!!

Heading back into the city we dropped off Chef Paul in Tuam Street, where an old friend of his now works at the Mediterranean Café. From there we toured the city where Michel was most interested in the local architecture, a seeming passion of his. Loving the old buildings and their style and grace, hating the new ones that lack any quality and any redeeming features. “That architect needs being hung, drawn and quartered” being a common quote. He opened my eyes to the horrible modern buildings that Christchurch does have, I have always appreciated the older building like the Tabernacle on Barbadoes Street, but never really noticed the horrific modern structures.

Hagley Park was touched on and briefly walked around (remembering Michel and Renee had been stuck onboard ship with no trees and greenery) before our final stop of the day. Where better to fulfil a love of buildings and vegetation but Worcester Boulevard, the Botanical Garden, The Art Centre and The College. A relaxed walk around, chatting and taking of personal photos, before time called a halt to our sojourn and the need to head back through the tunnel and back to board the Silver Whisper for the finale of the day

the finale 

Boarding the ship, the Silver Whisper again Michel and Renee escorted us to La Champagne, the fine dining restaurant were as part of the Escoffier Cruise package a wine tasting had been organised that we were to join. We joined some of the ship’s guests, introduced to them along with Chef Renee’s mother who was travelling with her.

It was here that Michel Escoffier’s friendly nature and tremendous sense of humour came to bear. As much as he has a passion for food and wine, he also has an fresh honesty in regards to some of the pomp that sometimes goes along with it. He poked fun at the wines nuances, its supposed flavours and aromas yet all the while appreciating them. He did not like all of them, but appreciated their quality. He was also quick to admit when he did not know what exact wine it was …… “could be a Beaujolais, but I am not sure” , in fact it was a Pinot Noir (for the record he is not a fan of Beaujolais wines)

Renee was first to admit she knew little of wine, and the tastings were a great chance for her to learn more. So refreshing, when a professional admits they do not know it all and are still a student of the culinary arts. We all need to admit it, I know I do with my trainees, that I will not always have the answers. We, like, Auguste Escoffier all need to remember we are all and always will be students of the culinary, we will all always be learning .... if we are honest and willing.

Reds and white were sampled. With the ship’s Sommelier ran through the process of tasting wines. checking the colour, its centre and how it changes to the edge. The nose, the different aromas and why one should first smell it while it sits undisturbed and how it changes once swirled in the glass. The tasting and the different flavours that can be distinguished, being quick to point out that what one distinguishes will be reliant on ones own memories, what may seem petroleum to one person will be maybe a puncture repair kit to another.

The ships guests who had paid a princely sum for the cruise and Escoffier food and wine part of it, were far from food and wine snobs. They were their to have fun, learn and enjoy. They were quick to join in any frivolities and poke fun at their own ignorance, memories and yet appreciated the Sommeliers knowledge and were quick to take it onboard.

It was late in the afternoon and the ship was to set sail soon and it was time for us to part before the ship’s departure. A final round of photos were taken by Renee’s mother, parting gifts and words were exchanged with Renee and Michel Escoffier took us below to disembark. Michel took our photo in front of the ship, we exchanged business cards and contact details and we said our au revoirs and bon voyage. My lasting memory will be looking back as I drove off from the ship to see Michel standing there and waving au revoir.

Was there a perfect way to end this end? Well, we thought we should at least wait around and watch the ship sail off. The end may not have been perfect but it did have a wee bit of irony to it. There is a pub at the docks which had a perfect view of the ship, a pub called The British Pub, seemed like a good idea. What made it the British Pub remains a mystery though, as it is run by countrymen of the ships’s line cooks: Phipipinos and serves Philipino food. It did have a fisherman’s basket however, which is what Ashley and myself dined on while we waited and watched as the Silver Shadow sailed not quite into the sunset (being on the east coast) but it did sail off and left a shadow cast over our memories.

A day that held great honour in our hearts, had put excitement in our stomachs and had infused an extra passion for the culinary world into Ash’s soul. Not everyday one gets to spend the day with the direct ancestor of the great Chef one has only ever read about, researched and written about. Not everyday one can open up their wallet and see a signed business card that reads : "bon chance, Michel Escoffier ........

Culinary Masters - Escoffier

The following article is one I wrote and published many moons ago when the internet was in its infancy. It was the basis for my first ever venture into websites; "Tallyrand's Culinary Fare", hosted on the now defunct Geocities. I started the website when I realised there was nothing already like it, there was nothing online where my trainee chefs could go to read about the rich history that the culinary has. Oh oh the world, the world wide web has changed! 

Thankfully I have managed to track down the original files and reproduce it here now, along with a brief history of many other of the culinary greats 

I am happy and proud to say it has been referenced many, many times since, including the Escoffier Museum. It also led to Michel Escoffier; the great man's great grandson requesting we meet up on a stopover visit to New Zealand a few years ago. (see link below) 

My day with Michel Escoffier

One question I was dying to ask Michel was "what do you think he would have thought of today's cuisine". The reply was this "He would have been proud to see his dishes and recipes surviving, he would have been dismayed by the Chefs who will not allow them to progress. After all he took many classical dishes that came before him and 'modernised' them for his time. So to say the master sauce Bechamel must be 100gm, 100gm, 1 lt goes against his very philosophy, because today we want lighter sauces, one's that need not be as thick a consistency as he would have used. I am sure he would have simply said, it is made with a white roux moistened with milk"  

______________________________________________________________________________

Chef Auguste Escoffier 

To many, took over the mantle of Antoine Careme. Escoffier took over from where Careme left off; taking the old styles and cuisines and not only re-invented them, but putting his own mark on them also. Redesigning kitchens and the way the chefs of the day worked, by creating the brigade system in use today and the way staff were treated.

At the beginning of Escoffier's career, cooking was not a profession held in high esteem. This was due partly to the laxity which could so easily creep in and also to the rigorous conditions of work. The cook spends the greater part of his time around the stove in overwhelming heat and in the midst of the smell of cooking, which, when concentrated, is sometimes almost unbearable. He works continuously without a moment's respite. For these reasons, in the mid-nineteenth century drinking was inevitably rife in the kitchen. Escoffier was quick to realise the risks in giving way to such excesses. The cuisine of course suffered, the atmosphere in the kitchen suffered and the appearance of certain old cooks, undermined by years of work in such conditions and by their intemperance, gave hims food for thought. He, with his small stature, was destined to suffer even more than others from the heat of the stoves. However, he never allowed himself to drink or smoke. He made it a point of honour to preserve his impeccable taste.

Later, when he had become a chef, he called upon a famous doctor to invent a pleasant and healthy drink which would relieve the discomfort of cooks working in such conditions. Thus in all the hotel kitchens which he planned, there was always a vast kettle containing a barley drink. This allowed Escoffier to prohibit the drinking of alcohol in the kitchen. Swearing and shouting were the norm then as was the brutal treatment of young apprentices. Escoffier fought first against professional slang and vulgarity of speech. Swearing and vulgar display of temper were no longer allowed and on his insistance there were to be no swearing and brutality of apprentices (as was the norm) and more thirst quenching drinks(non-alcoholic) were made available to combat the heat. He himself would leave the kitchen rather than lose his temper with the staff.

Escoffier also insisted on the cleanliness of his employees during working hours, and also encouraged them to dress and behave better outside. He was concerned too, with his employee's educational status, and advised them to acquire the culture which their professional training (often started at a very early age), had prevented them from attaining.

The kitchen brigade as we know it of Chef de parties etc was a system devised and implemented by Escoffier. Kitchens had for centuries been seperated into sections, but it was August who devised an organised system, to ensure there was no doubling up work and things were properly organised. Escoffiers kitchens were said to be well run and organised. Escoffier introduced the genuine frying-pan into English life.

He was also responsible for simplifying menus, instead of vast arrays of dishes served all at once; Service à la Française (as was the practice), it was Escoffier that wrote them down and served in the order they appeared; Service à la Russe. So simple an idea really, it is strange t think it was not the norm. That said of course, as in Chinese cuisine there is a place for banquet style service or Service à la Française

What is not widely known about Escoffier is the how much of a humanitarian he was. The following was told to me by the man's great grandson when I met and spent the day with him (January 2008)

"The humanitarian aspect is what I insist on today. People know him as a great chef and organiser, but they don't know he was a great humanitarian, concerned with the welfare of chefs and the poor. He was the first to create fundraising dinners for chefs who were sick or retiring and so on, and there are many other stories of his efforts.

"When he was at the Savoy with Caesar Ritz, he would collect all the supplies that were not served and, rather than throw them away, he put this out every morning and the nuns of the Little Sisters of the Poor would come and collect these things with a horse- drawn carriage – this is about 1891-92. One morning they did not show up. He went to see the Mother Superior and learned the horse had died and they did not have the five pounds to buy another, and five pounds was certainly a lot of money then. So that night a young commis chef from the Savoy showed up at the Little Sisters of the Poor with an envelope with five pounds in it.

"He continued (giving unused supplies to the poor) at the Carlton when he took over. He was there for 20 years, until he retired. Later, he was very sad to find that his successors had not continued the practice." 

Escoffier : a brief biography

1846

George Auguste Escoffier was thought to have been born on the 28th October 1846, in Villeneuve Loubet, a village which nestles peacefully below its mediaeval castle, in the neighbourhood of Nice, in the Provence region, and died February 12, 1935. He modernised and simplified the more elaborate cuisine of the 18th-century master chef, Marie Antoine CAREME.

As a young boy, he grew up in happy family surroundings. His father was a blacksmith and he also grew tobacco plants. He was known to be good-humoured, strong and a pleasing man. His fine physique, slim, strong body and open smiling face conveyed a feeling of health and friendliness which made him popular with everyone.

Up to the age of twelve, Auguste went to the local school. The enthusiasm which he showed for drawing and everything which gave him the opportunity to interpret the beauty around him seemed to indicate the vocation of an artist. But the child's future was to be very different. Perhaps it was the personality of the boy's grandmother that we must recognise to be one of the factors determining his future. Auguste loved and admired his grandmother, and perhaps it was at play in her kitchen that the desire was born to devote his life to the creation of artistic delicacies.

1859

Escoffier was thirteen years old and the time had come for him to learn a trade. "By all means let him devote his leisure time to art, but whoever made a living by it?" This reasoning, full of peasant good sense, was what prompted Escoffier's father to take the boy to Nice, where his brother had opened 'Le Restaurant Francais'. Auguste's uncle had succeeded in establishing a reputation for his restaurant which was to last until 1910.

Life was hard in the kitchens in those days, all the more so, for an apprentice and his uncle granted Auguste no special favours. Apart from the work of the kitchen, he was initiated into all the household tasks. He knew how to select and buy provisions as well as organise the service. Escoffier always remembered with gratitude the strict discipline and severity of his early training.

1865 

When he was nineteen, the chef of the Le Petit Moulin Rouge, (Ulysee Rohant) the most fashionable restaurant in Paris, noticed him during a stay in Nice and invited him to join his team, first as commis de rôtisseur and then Saucier There he stayed, but for a brief military training in 1866/7, until 1870. When the Franco-Prussian War broke out and he was recalled to the army. 

1870

Was appointed Chef de Cuisine at the fortress of Metz. There is no doubt that it was those days of siege which forced Escoffier to think so seriously about the necessity of preparing tinned food. He was the first chef to study thoroughly the technique of canning meat, vegetables and sauces. 

With the defeat of the French, Escoffier (apparantly) became a war prisoner and eventually freed with the help of the general manager of the “Kursaal” in Wiesbaden (Germany). Escoffier served thereafter in the kitchen brigade under the well known General Mac – Mahon, who later became the president of the republic. (webmaster's note : I have not been able to verify this last paragraph)

1871

Returns to Paris as the Head Chef for Colonel Comte de Waldner

1872 

Joins the “Hôtel du Luxembourg”, in Nice where he started his culinary career.

1873

Escoffier returned to the Le Petit Moulin Rouge after the war and remained their Head Chef until 1878. It said he took to wearing built up shoes so as to work better on the stoves (as he was a man of diminitive size).

1876

He opens his own restaurant in Cannes; Le Faisan d'Or (The Golden Pheasant)

1878?

Back in Paris, he either first worked as the Chef in the restaurant “Maire”, where Monsieur Paillard entrusted him with the management of his kitchens and then was appointed to the Management of the Maison Chevet, at the Palais Royal or Chevet and then Maire. Either way, this was an incredible achievement for someone so young of age (38) 

The Maison Chevet was a very fashionable restaurant particularly for big dinners and official banquets. In fact Chevet was known to 'deliver' dinners complete with silver cutlery, chinaware and a brigade of chefs etc as far away as Saint Petersburg (Russia). They also were the first ones to serve dinner in the Eiffel Tower in 1898, a dinner which was hosted by nobody less than Mr. Eiffel himself.

1880
The main event during this period was his marriage to Delphine Daffis, the daughter of a publisher.Writing poetry herself, she contributed to his first publication in book form entitled 'Les Fleurs en Cire' (Flowers in Wax) Escoffier wrote and published a great deal, and he is still consulted as an authority.

The best known culinary writings of Escoffier are : 

1886 - Le Traite sur L'art de Travailler les Fleurs en Cire
1903 - Le Guide Culinaire
1910 - Les Fleurs en Cire (a new edition)
1911 - Le Carnet d'Epicure
1912 - Le Livre des Menus
1927 - Le Riz
1929 - La Morue
1934 - Ma Cuisine

Its written work is, without question, that of a man far in advance of his time, yet he never failed to acknowledge the contribution of his predecessors. And though circumstances later kept him and his wife apart for long periods, they remained profoundly devoted to one another until the very end, 55 years later. They had two sons and a daughter.


1884
They left for Monte Carlo, (city in Monaco on the Mediterranean Coast) where the gambling casino was enjoying rapidly growing fame. He was Directeur de Cuisine of the Grand Hotel and during the next six years divided his time between the Grand Hotel in Winter and the Hotel National in Lucerne, Switzerland, in the summer.

It was here that Escoffier met Cesar Ritz who came from a small village in the Swiss Valais. Ritz started as a hotel groom and rapidly worked his way up to head waiter and into Hotel Management. The mutual understanding and teamwork between and Ritz was to bring about the most significant changes and modern development in the hotel industry.

1890

Along with Escanard, Escoffier and Ritz were called to the Savoy Hotel in London as General Manager and Head of Restaurant Services respectively. Their success was beyond expectation. Hotels all over the world grew out of this famous partnership. They included the Savoy and Carlton in London, the Grand Hotel, Rome. The Ritz Hotels in Paris, London, New York, Montreal, Philadelphia and many more. Many of the hotels throughout the world were established on the guarantee of their reputation, the very names Ritz and Carlton being synonymous with quality and a high degree of comfort.

Cesar Ritz and Escoffier, each in his own sphere, organised teams of first class workers who went out into all the corners of the world on ships and in hotels spreading the fame of French cuisine and comfort. Escoffier enjoyed considerable powers and had extensive means at his disposal, his role was both complex and difficult. Without losing sight of the commercial considerations involved, he was expected several times daily and at any hour to serve the kind of meals expected by a numerous and exigent clientele with very limited time to spare. It was essential to have some dishes prepared in advance for those who had not the time to wait. He had to keep in mind not only the short time allowed for the actual consumption of the meal, but also the often non-existent, time allowed by business men for the digestive process.

The work of the kitchen had to be so organised that the quality of the food was not impaired by the speed with which it had to be served or by the number of clients. Hygienic considerations had to be taken into account also, and, last but not least, in a country where the supply of provisions is often more difficult than in France, he had to organise a system of marketing which reconciled peerless quality with an economic price.

Each evening he had to think up new menus so as never to be found wanting by the gourmets attracted to the Savoy by his presence. Escoffier created many of his famous dishes in the honour of his guests, most notably the following 

Peach Melba,
In honour of the Australian Singer, Nellie Melba. During 1892 and 1893, Madame Melba lived at the Savoy Hotel. She was singing at Covent Garden Opera House, and Escoffier, who was passionately interested in the theatre, was an enthusiastic listener. The Majestic Swan which appears on the scene, gave him the idea of preparing a surprise for the brilliant singer. The following evening Melba had invited some friends to dinner. Taking advantage of this opportunity, Escoffier had peaches served on a bed of vanilla ice-cream in a metal dish, set between two wings of a magnificent swan, shaped out of a block of ice and covered with a layer of icing sugar.

lt was on the day of the opening of the Carlton Hotel, London, that Escoffier decided on the flavour which was to give this dessert its real claim to distinction. Out of the whole range of fruit flavours, he chose raspberry, thus "Peach Melba" officially came into being.

Melba Toast
Originally named Toast Marie, after the wife of Cesar Ritz. But changed it later to honour Dame Melba instead.

Chaud - Froid Jeannette In 1881 the Jeannette, a ship equipped for an expedition to the North Pole, became icebound. The whole crew died except two sailors who after repeated efforts managed to reach the Siberian coast.It was in memory of this expedition that Escoffier wanted to give the name of this ship to one of his greatest culinary successes "Les Supremes de Volailles Jeannette".

Cuisses de Nymphe Aurorea dish of frogs legs created for the Prince of Wales

Rejane Salad

Rachel Mignonettes of Quail 
In homage to two great actresses.

Tournedos Rossini
Named after the great Italian composer, Gioacchino Rossini (although this may have been a dish only made famous by Escoffier and actually created by other chefs)

Not to mention all the other recipes of his we still use today, is it then no wonder he gained the title; King of Chefs' and Chef of the Kings'

1898

Cesar and Escoffier opened the Hotel Ritz in Paris, which was the most modern of the time. It had electric lights, large bathrooms built into cupboards. A wine cellar that held 4000 bottles of vintage an da reserve cellar a few blocks away that held another 180,000 ! However at their instance the ovens were fired by coke or wood.

1899

The Carlton Hotel was opened in the very heart of London. The kitchens, administered by Escoffier who had a team of sixty cooks under his control, were so organised as to be able easily to serve menus a' la carte, a practice introduced for the first time at the Carlton. lt was not unusual, particularly on a Sunday to serve anything up to 500 clients at each meal. Escoffier was to spend more than twenty years there. In 1901 the team broke up when Cesar had a nervous breakdown (dying in 1918). Escoffier remained at the Carlton until 1919

1902/3

Saw the publication of his book; Le Guide Culinaire, an amazing compendium of around 5000 recipes and garnishes. He was associated with E. Fetu and P. Traisneau in founding in 1903 l'Association Culinaire Francaise de Secours Muteuls, a friendly society for French cooks working in England.

1904

The German Shipping Company, Hamburg - Amerika Lines, decided to introduce an a' la carte restaurant service for the more illustrious of the passengers on their liners. The service was to be named "The Ritz Carlton Restaurants". Escoffier was invited to plan the kitchens.

Also around this time he was a consultant for the shipping line, which included the RMS Titanic The menu served on its final night as it sank was created by Escoffier Which is kind of ironic given the fact that one of his most famous dishes (peach Melba) was served on an ice sockle 

1912

Again the Hamburg - Amerika Shipping Line requested Escoffier's services for the inauguration of the kitchens. During the official trial cruise the Press gave it ample publicity. They headlined "Cuisine Hailed on Sea as on Land".

Aboard the liner Imperator shortly before the start of World War I, as the Larousse Gastronomique tells it. The Kaiser, Emperor William II, was so impressed with the job that the supervisor of the ship's imperial kitchens had done that he turned to him and said, "I am the Emperor of Germany, but you are the Emperor of chefs."

1914

Auguste Escoffier was sixty-eight years of age. He continued to direct the Carlton's kitchens. In spite of his small stature, he displayed the same energy and strength as had his father.

1919

At the age of seventy-three, Escoffier decided to leave the Carlton and to retire to Monte Carlo and rejoin his wife. Escoffier, however, could not adapt himself to retirement. At Monte Carlo he met once again the widow of his friend Jean Giroix, with whom he worked at the Petit Mouline Rouge, and whose place he had taken at the Grand Hotel, Monaco. Escoffier accepted her proposal that he should collaborate with her in the administration of the Hotel de I'Ermitage. He also assisted in the development of the Riviera Hotel in Upper Monte Carlo.

1920?

On 22nd March, the Commander of the Legion of Honour and Director of Technical Education, conferred on Escoffier the Order of Officer of the Legion of Honour. Escoffier was the first chef to be honoured.

Escoffier often composed menus himself when he knew the clients. When he did not know them, the head waiter would give brief indications of their nationality, of how many men and how many women made up the party, and of any preferences they had disclosed. This information enabled Escoffier to adapt the menu to suit the guests.

Escoffier introduced notable changes also in the presentation of his dishes and even in the actual choice of china. His primary consideration was the comfort of the client. He chose finechina, silver, linen and glassware which enhanced the superb food and wine. He introduced the most practical of kitchen utensils and those best suited to the quality of the cuisine.

1928  

Received the Rosette of an Officer of the Legion by the German Emperor William II.

1935 

On the 12th February, a few short weeks after the death of his wife, Escoffier died in his home, La Villa Fernand, 8 bis Avenue de la Costa, Monte Carlo, in his eighty-ninth year. His remains are buried in the family vault at Villeneuve - Loubet. The house where he was born was transformed into a museum of culinary art in 1966, at the suggestion of one of his cooks.

Footnotes:

"I well remember a shooting party given by one of my friends who owned a vast property in an exquisite valley of the Haute-Savoie. My friend had chosen this domain so that he could go there from time to time, far from the irritations of a too active life. It was the beginning of November, a period when the shooting offers particularly attractive sport, especially in these rather wild districts. About ten guests were assembled on the Thursday evening, and it was decided that at dawn the following morning we should all set out, dispersing as chance directed, in search of a few coveys of partridge. Our meal, that evening, was composed of a cream of pumpkin soup with little croutons fried in butter, a young turkey roasted on the spit accompanied by a large country sausage and a salad of potatoes, dandelions and beetroot, and followed by a big bowl of pears cooked in red wine and served with whipped cream. Next morning at the agreed hour, we were all ready, and furnished with the necessary provisions and accompanied by local guides, we climbed the rocky paths, real goat tracks, without too much difficulty and before long the fusillade began. It was those members of the party who had gone ahead who were opening the shoot by bagging two hares; the day promised to be fairly fruitful. And indeed so it turned out, since we were back at the house by about four o'clock, somewhat tired, but proud to count out: three hares, a very young chamois, eleven partridges, three capercailzies, six young rabbits, and a quantity of small birds. After a light collation, we patiently awaited dinner contemplating the while the admirable panorama which lay before us. The game which we had shot was reserved for the next day's meals.

Our dinner that evening consisted of a cabbage, potato, and kohlrabi soup, augmented with three young chickens, an enormous piece of lean bacon, and a big farmhouse sausage. The broth, with some of the mashed vegetables, was poured over slices of toast, which made an excellent rustic soup. What remained of the vegetables were arranged on a large dish around the chickens, the bacon, and the sausage; here was the wherewithal to comfort the most robust of stomachs, and each of us did due honour to this good family dish.To follow, we were served with a leg of mutton, tender and pink, accompanied by a puree of chestnuts. Then, a surprise-- but one which was not entirely unexpected from our host, who had an excellent cook--an immense, hermetically sealed terrine, which, placed in the middle of the table, gave out, when it was uncovered, a marvelous scent of truffles, partridges, and aromatic herbs. This terrine contained eight young partridges, amply truffled and cased in fat bacon, a little bouquet of mountain herbs and several glasses of fine-champagne cognac. All had been lengthily and gently cooked in hot embers. At the same time was served a celery salad. As for the wines, we had first the excellent local wine, then Burgundy, and finally a famous brand of champagne. The dinner ended with beautiful local fruit, and fine liqueurs.

The next day's luncheon was composed partly of the trophies of the previous day's shooting; the pure mountain air had advantageously taken the place of any aperitif; nor did we have any hors-d'oeuvre but instead, some char from the lac du Bourget, cooked and left to get cold in white wine from our host's own vineyards. These were accompanied by a completely original sauce, and here is the recipe: Recipe: Grated horseradish, mixed with an equal quantity of skinned walnuts finely chopped; a dessertspoon of powdered sugar, a pinch of salt, the juice of two lemons, enough fresh cream to obtain a sauce neither too thick nor too liquid. We all carried away with us the happiest memory of this beautiful country of Savoie and of the very hospitable welcome which we had received. For my part, I have never forgotten the sauce of horseradish and walnuts."